Proud Vins de Pays

Vin de Pays : « Table wine personalized by its geographic origin ». Does this official definition of this appellation reflect the reality of this « viticultural type », whose best producers sell their creation up to 70€ ?

Certain producers prefer to pass by the status of A.O.C. (=Appellation d’Origine Controlée – controlled appellation of origin), the highest in the French wine’s hierarchy, to be free in creating their beloved wine and choose liberately the grape variety, the output and the methods. « There are thousands of grape varieties, why do they just talk about eight of them ? », insurges Aimé Guibert, the patriarch of Daumas Gassac, whose name has become “its own appellation”.

The same with Eloi Dürrbach of the domain Trévallon, at first he felt downgraded by his passing the “Vin de Pays”. A soon forgotten disappointment, because his refusal to adapt himself in the name of beauty – and of liberty of creation, for he is the son of the painter René Dürrbach, Pablo Picasso’s friend – drove him to the rank of guide for many producers in the Provence! But you need audacity, talent and an absolute confidence into your land to refuse the A.O.C…. But then you are on the crest without any doubt.

Wine grounds…. In times of “bio” the consumer loves this unrefined product. The Vins de Pays tell him more. They evoke quality and naturalness, biologic agriculture and country-style parties…. “The mentalities have slightly changed”, explains Laurent Vaillé from the domain La Grange des pères. It seems actually that the appellation “Vin de Pays” becomes more and more the synonym for “Vin de terroir” (= wines of the area).

This is what these producers desired – half pioneers, half monk soldats and proud defenders of their land and their culture.

2006, October 18 - © Le Monde

Other information :
• Languedoc-Roussillon
• Provence
• Domaine De Trévallon
• Mas De Daumas Gassac
• Domaine Gauby
• Grange Des Pères